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亚愽app安卓-陕西汉中,四川味儿还是甘肃味儿?
发布时间:2021-10-11 02:37:01

▲ There is no Hanzhong who does not like to eat hot noodles. Figure/Visual China

▲没有汉中人不喜欢吃热面。图形/视觉中国

Authentic Scenery · Eleventh Album

真实风景·第十一张专辑

Qinling Huaihe River

秦岭淮河

It is the geographical boundary between the north and south of China

它是中国北部和南部之间的地理边界

Because of the special location of this line

由于这条线的特殊位置

Compatible with North and South in diet

与北部和南部的饮食兼容

Beyond the Qinling Mountains, there are many flavors of Northwest China and Bashu

除了秦岭,还有西北和巴蜀的许多风味

Walk the Huaihe River, see the thick and solid Central Plains, Huaiyang is clear and graceful

漫步淮河,看到厚重而坚实的中原,淮阳清幽

National Day and Mid-Autumn Festival

国庆节和中秋节

Let us follow this line together

让我们一起走这条线

"All North"

“全北”

The third station

第三站

Hanzhong, Shaanxi

Han中, SHA安息

Shaanxi cuisine is always "represented" by Xi'an cuisine in the eyes of outsiders. It seems that the old people in Shaanxi are all bound with noodles, soup must be spicy soup, and steamed buns. To

在局外人眼中,陕西菜始终是西安菜的“代表”。看来陕西的老百姓都吃面条,汤一定是辣汤,还有steam头。至

In fact, the north-south span of Shaanxi is extremely large, and the flavors of different regions are also completely different——

实际上,陕西的南北跨度非常大,不同地区的风味也完全不同-

People in northern Shaanxi like to eat mutton. The Gansu, Ningxia, Mongolia, and Shanxi provinces next to each other are "big provinces for eating sheep"; Guanzhong prefers pasta, sitting in Qinchuan for 800 miles, and is definitely the "master of noodle eating"; However, as soon as the Qinling Mountains were passed, the staple food changed from noodles to rice, and the food style instantly became gentle. The most representative city is Hanzhong.

陕北人喜欢吃羊肉。毗邻的甘肃,宁夏,蒙古和山西省是“吃羊的大省”。关中偏爱面食,它在秦川坐了800英里,绝对是“吃面大师”。然而,秦岭越过后,主食从面条变成米饭,饮食风格立即变得温和。最具代表性的城市是汉中。

Hanzhong, at the turn of Sichuan, Shaanxi, and Gansu provinces, stands the Qinling Mountains to the north and Daba Mountain to the south. It is a long and narrow basin surrounded by mountains. The Hanjiang River originates from Ningqiang County in the southwest. From west to east, it traverses the entire Hanzhong area. The abundant water sources give this land a southern style.

汉中位于四川,陕西和甘肃两省的交界处,北邻秦岭,南邻大巴山。这是一个四面环山的狭长盆地。汉江发源于西南的宁强县。从西到东,它横贯整个汉中地区。丰富的水源使这片土地具有南方风格。

And the food and flavor of Hanzhong, like her geographical location, is "not south nor north". It is a combination of the three provinces' directors-Hanzhong hot noodles made of rice, Ningqiang spicy chicken with Sichuan flavor, and the beloved pulp of Northwesterners. On the surface of the water, the Lueyang pots and teas left by the Qiang people...each of them crosses the region, bringing a new experience on the tip of the tongue.

和汉中的地理位置一样,汉中的食物和风味也不是“南方也不是北方”。它是三个省的省长-稻米制成的汉中热面,四川风味的宁强麻辣鸡和西北人钟爱的果肉。在水面上,the族留下的略阳壶和茶……它们中的每一个都穿过该地区,给舌尖带来了新的体验。

Hanzhong hot noodles and "Northwest Liangpi" are completely different.

汉中热面和“西北凉皮”完全不同。

First of all, Hanzhong noodles are made with rice milk. The so-called "Qinling one line, south to eat rice and north to eat noodles", Hanzhong's noodles, "noodles" is a technique-refers to grinding the ingredients into powder, but the material actually used is rice. The northern preparation method, southern ingredients, a bowl of Hanzhong hot noodles, are the masters of "Southern Rice and North Noodles".

首先,汉中面条是用米浆制成的。所谓“秦岭一线,南吃米饭,北吃面条”,汉中的面条,“面条”是一种技术,指将原料磨成粉,但实际使用的材料是大米。北方的制作方法,南方的食材,一碗汉中热面,是“南方大米和北方面”的主人。

Unlike northern Shaanxi and Guanzhong, Hanzhong, located in the Hanshui Valley, has a more humid climate and has been relatively stable and fertile in history. Therefore, rice can be grown on a large scale on this land. The Hanzhong people in southern Shaanxi are not as enthusiastic as other old Shaanxi. He loves noodles and buns, but prefers rice as his staple food.

与陕北和关中不同,汉中位于汉水流域,气候较为潮湿,历史上相对稳定和富饶。因此,稻米可以在这片土地上大规模种植。陕西南部的汉中人并不像其他老陕西人那样热情。他喜欢面条和bun头,但更喜欢米饭作为他的主食。

Compared with the "stubbornness" of Liangpi, Hanzhong noodles made of rice are more gentle and full of southern customs. The entrance is soft and waxy, no need to chew, the gentle dough melts between the lips and teeth naturally, exuding a charming fragrance of rice, and every bite is full of satisfaction.

与凉皮的“固执”相比,汉中米粉更柔和,充满了南方风情。入口柔软而蜡质,无需咀嚼,柔和的面团自然在嘴唇和牙齿之间融化,散发着迷人的大米香气,每一口都很满足。

People from other villages often call Hanzhong hot noodles "hot rice noodles" to distinguish them. In addition to the noodles made of rice, some areas of Hanzhong also use cold noodles made of flour, which are called "noodle noodles" locally, and sweet potato flour. It is called "fenpi" (Vax flour noodles). The Ning Qiang people in the west use fern root powder to make dumpling wrappers and wrap them with fillings to form a unique "root noodle corner".

其他村庄的人们经常称呼汉中热面为“热米粉”以区别它们。除米粉外,汉中一些地区还使用面粉制成的冷面(在当地被称为“面条”)和地瓜粉。它被称为“芬皮”(Vax粉面)。西部的Qian族人用蕨根粉制成饺子皮,并用馅料包裹起来,形成一个独特的“根面角”。

The breakfast of Hanzhong people often starts with a bowl of hot noodles, and the best partner is undoubtedly a bowl of tofu. Vegetable tofu is not a simple combination of "vegetable + tofu", but a tofu made with syrup instead of braised seeds. The taste is slightly sour and fragrant, which complements the hotness of the dough.

汉中人的早餐通常以一碗热面开始,而最好的搭档无疑是一碗豆腐。蔬菜豆腐不是“蔬菜+豆腐”的简单组合,而是用糖浆而不是红烧种子制成的豆腐。味道有点酸和香,补充了面团的热度。

Another breakfast is the unique Hanzhong pot stickers. Unlike most people's impression of pot stickers, Hanzhong pot stickers have no fillings and look more like fried dough sticks. Before frying, use bitter bean powder, peanuts, sesame seeds, pepper powder and rapeseed oil to make ingredients, brush on the dough for seasoning, and then deep-fry until golden and crispy, and the aroma is overflowing. To

另一顿早餐是独特的汉中锅贴。与大多数人对锅贴的印象不同,汉中锅贴没有馅料,看上去更像油条。油炸之前,先用苦豆粉,花生,芝麻,胡椒粉和菜籽油做原料,在面团上刷一下做调味料,然后炸至金黄酥脆,香气四溢。至

When a bowl of steaming, finger-wide Hanzhong noodles is brought up, underneath is the "bottom mat" such as cucumber, soybean sprouts, potato shreds, celery, and spinach. Huyou's uniquely boiled "You Lazi" is paired with a bowl of fragrant vegetable tofu and bite into a crispy potsticker.

一碗热气腾腾的指腹汉中面条被抬起,下面是黄瓜,豆芽,土豆丝,芹菜和菠菜等“底垫”。 you油特制的“油拉子”与一碗香浓的蔬菜豆腐搭配,并放入香脆的锅贴中。

Such a hot and soft noodle is just the "gentle town" on the tip of the tongue of Hanzhong people.

如此柔软的面条只是汉中人舌尖上的“温柔之乡”。

Pulp water is the flow of gourmet blood in the body of Northwesterners.

纸浆亚愽app安卓水是美食家在西北人体内的流动。

The strong sourness and mellow aroma of bean curd come from the special syrup, and the mainstream way of eating syrup is a bowl of sour and tempting surface. To the Taihang Mountains in the east, to the ancient city of Dunhuang in the west, to the south of Shaanxi and to the north of Sichuan, to the north of Ningxia, you can see the figure of the water. The approach is similar:

豆腐浓郁的酸味和柔和的香气来自特殊的糖浆,而糖浆的主要食用方式是一碗酸味诱人的表面。东至太行山,西至敦煌古城,陕西以南,四川以北,宁夏以北,可以看到水面。方法类似:

Find a black lacquered slurry tank, blanch the vegetables in boiling water and chop them, add the cooked noodle soup or rice soup, like the southern pickles, you need to add "old brine", and the slurry also needs "sour primer" (Usually old pulp water) to stimulate the flavor. Cover the lid and keep it sealed, and after a few days, you will get the syrup and the syrup soaked in it.

找到一个黑色漆浆槽,将蔬菜在沸水中烫一下,切碎,加入煮熟的面条汤或米汤,例如南部的泡菜,则需要添加“旧盐水”,并且浆液还需要“酸底漆”(通常是老浆水)以刺激风味。盖上盖子并保持密封,几天后,您将得到糖浆并将糖浆浸入其中。

Most of the noodles in Hanzhong are made of "lala cai" (potherb mustard), and some are pickled with rape, radish, etc., and then soaked with a few green pepper leaves to taste. Add ginger rice and dried chili to stir-fry the water, then use lard to fry it until fragrant, and finally put a few tofu sticks that are deep-fried until light yellow, and sprinkle with a handful of oily spicy pepper that is popular in Shaanxi.

汉中的大多数面条都是用“ lala cai”(野菜芥末)制成的,有的用油菜,萝卜等腌制,然后用几片青椒叶浸泡以调味。加入姜饭和干辣椒炒水,然后用猪油将其炸至香,最后放几根炸至深黄色的豆腐棒,再撒上少量油腻的麻辣辣椒在陕西。

The noodles are ordinary hand-rolled noodles, the soul of the noodles is all in the soup, and a sip is full of sourness. The acidity of the slurry is not as aggressive as the old Shanxi vinegar. Instead, it is heavy acidity, calming acidity, combined with the hemp and spicy flavor of green pepper, and at the same time, it reaches the forehead, full of stamina, and makes people feel instantly.

面条是普通的手卷面条,面条的灵魂就在汤里,一口full满了酸味。泥浆的酸度不如山西老醋强。相反,它具有浓郁的酸度,令人放松的酸度,加上青椒的麻辣味,同时达到了充满耐力的前额,让人立刻感觉到。

A bowl of Hanzhong noodles combines the flavors of Gansu, Sichuan and Shaanxi provinces.

一碗汉中面结合了甘肃,四川和陕西三省的风味。

Another flavor of Hanzhong delicacies connected with the people of Gansu is Lueyang's pot tea. Lueyang, located in the western part of Hanzhong, is adjacent to Longnan, Gansu, where the water from the Western Han Dynasty flows into the Jialing River and floods into the Sichuan Basin. In this ancient land, the eating habits left by the ancient Qiang people have gone through thousands of years and constituted the unique "morning tea" custom of Lueyang people-pots of tea.

与甘肃人民有联系的汉中美食的另一种风味是略阳的壶茶。略阳位于汉中西部,毗邻甘肃Long南,西汉时期的水流入嘉陵江,洪水泛滥至四川盆地。在这片古老的土地上,古代Qian族人留下的饮食习惯已经经历了数千年,并构成了略阳族独特的“早茶”习俗-茶罐。

Rather than talking about tea, Lueyang’s pots of tea are more like a pot of thick soup-in addition to tea, oil, salt, flour, and walnut chopped are added to the tea pot, and then flavored with the fragrance of ageratum grown in the mountains. Boil it into a pot of thick soup. After the soup is made, the fragrance of medicinal tea is overflowing, and a few Huajuan or steamed buns form the common "source of vitality" for the people of Longnan (in fact, Dingxi, Lanzhou and other Gansu cities) and Lueyang people throughout the day. .

略阳的茶具与其说的是茶,不如说是一锅浓汤,除了在茶具中加入茶,油,盐,面粉和切碎的核桃之外,还加入了生长于其中的香ger草的香气。山。把它煮成一锅浓汤。汤制成后,药茶的香气四溢,a花或steam头成为form南人民(实际上是定西,兰州和甘肃其他城市)和略阳人民的共同“活力来源”那天。 。

Despite being in Shaanxi, Hanzhong people tend to identify with Sichuan even more. To

尽管在陕西,但汉中人还是倾向于与四川认同。至

Located between the Guanzhong Basin and the Sichuan Basin, the two "land of abundance", Hanzhong not only does not lack water, but instead has abundant rainfall and criss-crossing rivers. It can not only bloom like rapeseed everywhere in the south of the Yangtze River, but also is rich in tea "Hanzhong Xianhao" like the Sichuan Basin. ", a scene of southern China.

汉中地处关中盆地和四川盆地之间,是两个“丰盛的土地”,不仅缺水,而且雨水充沛,河流纵横交错。它不仅可以像油菜籽一样在长江以南盛开,而且像四川盆地一样富含“汉中鲜豪”茶。 ”,这是中国南方的一幕。

The flavor of Hanzhong is more like Maxi and Spicy like the land of Bashu. Almost every household in Hanzhong has a hot pepper pot. The hot noodles are sprinkled with oil pepper. The recipe is like the oil pepper in Shaanxi. The spiciness is better, and the more south it is, the hotter it becomes. The spices are more like the spicy flavor of Sichuan style.

汉中的风味更像Maxi和Spicy,就像巴蜀之地。汉中几乎每个家庭都有一个辣椒锅。热面条上撒上油胡椒。食谱就像陕西的油椒。辣味越好,越南越热。香料更像四川风味的辛辣味。

The spicy chicken of Ningqiang in Hanzhong is based on the spicy chicken in Sichuan cuisine, and it is said to have been made by a chef in Chengdu. After arriving in Hanzhong, I switched to local chicken and seasoned it with a lot of oily chili peppers, and spices such as grass fruit, star anise, and Chinese pepper. The taste was so spicy and spicy that the diners were in Hanzhong, but mistakenly thought they had entered the land of Bashu.

汉中宁强的麻辣鸡是四川风味的麻辣鸡,据说是成都的厨师做的。到达汉中之后,我换了当地的鸡肉,并用很多油腻的辣椒和草果,八角茴香和中国胡椒等香料调味。味道如此辛辣,以至于食客们都在汉中,但是错误地以为他们已经进入了巴蜀。

From Zhenba bacon, we can also see the roots and feet of the south. The Guanzhong Plain has a relatively dry climate, so there is less lax flavor; while the southern part of Hanzhong is connected to the mountains in the Shu area, with a humid climate and rugged mountain roads. The locals pickled and smoked Hanjiang black pigs to form golden, bright, fatty but not greasy bacon. Stewed together with dried bamboo shoots, the flavor is excellent.

从镇巴培根,我们还可以看到南方的根和脚。关中平原气候比较干燥,所以味道较松散。汉中南部与蜀区山脉相连,气候湿润,山路崎rug。当地人腌制和熏制了汉江黑猪,形成了金黄,明亮,肥厚但不油腻的培根。与干笋炖在一起,味道极佳。

"Sui Shu·Geography" once said: "The people of Hanzhong are simple and without literature, and are not very profitable. They are sexually addicted, and they are troubled with fishing. Although they are rich in chaimen, they must eat and eat meat."

《隋书·地理志》曾说:“汉中人淳朴,没有文学,也不是很赚钱。性上瘾,钓鱼困扰。尽管汉族人丰富,但还是要吃饱肉。”

Hanzhong people are very particular about food, and their temperament is gentle and easy, and like the Shu people, they are good at enjoying life. A bowl of hot noodles in the early morning and a bowl of syrup noodles at noon, leisurely all day long in the old city that is neither south nor north, all seasons like spring, is exactly the style of Hanzhong.

汉中人对食物很讲究,性情温柔轻松,像蜀族一样,善于生活。清晨一碗热面条和一碗糖浆面条,在既不南也不北的老城区,整日悠闲地整日悠闲,四季如春,正是汉中的风格。

- END - 

- 结束 -

September

九月

Seal picture | Vision China

印章图片|视觉中国

*Special thanks

*特别感谢

Hanzhong enthusiastic citizen Mr. Chen

汉中热心市民陈先生

Photographer Mr. Bai Yuchao

摄影白玉超先生

Hanzhongge photography studio

Han中个photography studio

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